Sit/Stand Desk Scratch Build - Part 2
- 6 yıl önce
Part 1:\r
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Skip to 14:55 if you want to see the completed project.\r
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Here is the second of two parts, documenting my build of a custom designed/built sit/stand desk. I made the top from recycled pallets, the base from 2x2x3/16 tube and 2x2x1/8 angle. The movement is provided by heavy duty 24 drawer slides and a pair of linear uators. The finish is a two part epoxy designed for boats and bar tops. \r
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Additional FAQs:\r
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QUESTION: What are the specs on the linear uators, and where did you get them?\r
ANSWER: Linear Actuator (Stroke Size 18, Force 200 Lbs, Speed 0.94/sec) Item #PA-02-18-200 from Progressive Automations\r
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QUESTION: What did you use to coat the top?\r
ANSWER: I used MirrorCoat from System 3. Because I had so much depth, this ually ended up being the most expensive part of the project. I used a 3 gallon kit, plus some. \r
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QUESTION: How much did this project cost?\r
ANSWER: The cost was approximately $1200USD. The costs were for the steel, linear uators, power supply, switch, drawer slides and epoxy. The wood was donated.\r
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QUESTION: What is the cut-out/notch along the one long edge?\r
ANSWER: This cut-out is the ex width of the mounting plate for my dual-monitor stand. The depth allows me to get the monitors a little further forward, and allow me to route cables out the back, while placing the desk quite close to the wall. \r
\r
QUESTION: Why did you use a blow torch on the epoxy?\r
ANSWER: The torch is used to pop the bubbles that were introduced both from mixing the two-part epoxy, as well as from the wood on the initial pour/coat. The bubbles naturally rise to the surface, but wont burst. The heat causes the air inside the bubble to expand and it overcomes the surface tension and *pop*!\r
\r
QUESTION: How did you learn this? How can I learn these things?\r
ANSWER: A lot of it is just growing up on a horse ranch. We were largely self-sufficient. We would rarely call repair tradesmen in unless it was really outside of our comfort area, or had a LOT of risk.\r
Now that I live in a metro area, and dont have the room I would like, etc.. I have recently joined a makerspace to give me access to some specialized things, or tools I dont have room to house in the garage. As far as additional learning. youtube and forums are great sources. The biggest thing I can give you is this: As long as you are safe, dont be afraid to fail. Failure teaches you more than an easy path. Just make what you can, with what you can. It will be better than what you can get from a big-box store most of the time. and you will be proud of it.\r
\r
The presentation of this build video was inspired by Jimmy DiResta, a true builder, and who I want to be when I grow up. Go check out and subscribe to his channel!
\r
\r
Skip to 14:55 if you want to see the completed project.\r
\r
Here is the second of two parts, documenting my build of a custom designed/built sit/stand desk. I made the top from recycled pallets, the base from 2x2x3/16 tube and 2x2x1/8 angle. The movement is provided by heavy duty 24 drawer slides and a pair of linear uators. The finish is a two part epoxy designed for boats and bar tops. \r
\r
Additional FAQs:\r
\r
QUESTION: What are the specs on the linear uators, and where did you get them?\r
ANSWER: Linear Actuator (Stroke Size 18, Force 200 Lbs, Speed 0.94/sec) Item #PA-02-18-200 from Progressive Automations\r
\r
QUESTION: What did you use to coat the top?\r
ANSWER: I used MirrorCoat from System 3. Because I had so much depth, this ually ended up being the most expensive part of the project. I used a 3 gallon kit, plus some. \r
\r
QUESTION: How much did this project cost?\r
ANSWER: The cost was approximately $1200USD. The costs were for the steel, linear uators, power supply, switch, drawer slides and epoxy. The wood was donated.\r
\r
QUESTION: What is the cut-out/notch along the one long edge?\r
ANSWER: This cut-out is the ex width of the mounting plate for my dual-monitor stand. The depth allows me to get the monitors a little further forward, and allow me to route cables out the back, while placing the desk quite close to the wall. \r
\r
QUESTION: Why did you use a blow torch on the epoxy?\r
ANSWER: The torch is used to pop the bubbles that were introduced both from mixing the two-part epoxy, as well as from the wood on the initial pour/coat. The bubbles naturally rise to the surface, but wont burst. The heat causes the air inside the bubble to expand and it overcomes the surface tension and *pop*!\r
\r
QUESTION: How did you learn this? How can I learn these things?\r
ANSWER: A lot of it is just growing up on a horse ranch. We were largely self-sufficient. We would rarely call repair tradesmen in unless it was really outside of our comfort area, or had a LOT of risk.\r
Now that I live in a metro area, and dont have the room I would like, etc.. I have recently joined a makerspace to give me access to some specialized things, or tools I dont have room to house in the garage. As far as additional learning. youtube and forums are great sources. The biggest thing I can give you is this: As long as you are safe, dont be afraid to fail. Failure teaches you more than an easy path. Just make what you can, with what you can. It will be better than what you can get from a big-box store most of the time. and you will be proud of it.\r
\r
The presentation of this build video was inspired by Jimmy DiResta, a true builder, and who I want to be when I grow up. Go check out and subscribe to his channel!